Just as pubs are the heart of London life and Naples is peppered with pizzerias, Paris is the city of bistros. Each trip to the City of Lights inevitably includes a meal of time-honored French dishes (Boeuf Bourgignon, anyone?). While I adore these classics, isn't variety the spice of life? Here are a handful of dining trends that are sweeping this cosmopolitan city now.
Fringe Dining
The benefits of dining at off-the-beaten path locales are vast. Since these restaurants are frequented by more locals than tourists, one can get a true feel of how Parisians really eat. Also, the prices tend to be cheaper and it’s easier to score a reservation. Don’t worry about sacrificing quality for location; one of my favorite meals in Paris was at Le Severo, a gem in the unremarkable 14th Arronidisement. Meat is the main attraction at Le Severo; it’s owner, William Bernet is an ex-butcher, so their small menu is a carnivore’s fantasy. This petit restaurant seats barely 30--what some may call “cramped“, I call “cozy“-- so prepare to nestle close to your neighbors. As a solo diner, this proximity was actually a plus; my meal was spent conversing with a friendly Parisian father and son, who chatted me up upon seeing that I was reading the New Yorker, the father‘s favorite magazine. We swapped stories of New York --the dad exclaimed his favorite fries were actually found there!--and they generously shared their Jambon d‘Auvergne, a giant plate of glistening ham. Do not miss the Boudin Noir--even if the thought of blood sausage sends shivers down your spine, this version is incredibly luscious, charred crisp on the outside and dotted with nuggets of fat. For a main course, the faux filet with frites (fried in, you guessed it, duck fat) is the best I’ve tasted in Paris. The beef comes from Auvergne, a pastoral region known for prize cows (aka quality beef and cheese). A massive wine list is scrawled on the chalkboard wall, ranging from the simple to splurges.
Side Dish: Shop like the pros at E. Dehillerin, a treasure trove of culinary tools for professional chefs. The friendly and quirky green-aproned staff will happily search through bins of whisks, copper tins, pots, and pans to find exactly what you need. Bring home a souvenir like a Madeleine pan or terrine mold - more authentic than an oversized Paris tee shirt, non?
Le Severo
8, Rue des Plantes
Paris 75014
01.45.40.40.91
Museum Eats
It is only fitting that some of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris would be housed in fine art institutions. My Parisian friend, Julie, clued me in to the Café de l’Homme at the Musée d’Homme, for its jaw-dropping views of the Eiffel Tower. Considering the gorgeous vistas, I expected the food to be ho-hum, but I had a magnificent Steak Tartare, made from organic beef and prepared tableside in an oh-so-French fashion. If the patio is closed, a seat inside the Art Deco-inspired room still offers the view, but in a fancier setting, with golden walls, sumptuous purple couches, and jellyfish-like chandeliers dripping with diamonds.
For a less expensive option, visit the Café des Hauteurs at the Musée D’Orsay. If you share my affection for the building itself, you will adore this 5th floor café, which is situated behind one of the gargantuan clocks of this former train station. Essentially a glorified cafeteria, even on a Parisian rainy day, the room is stunning thanks to the natural light from the clock window. Try the goat cheese tartine which features pungent disks of creamy cheese. Or, my father opted for an affogato, vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso, for his birthday treat to help battle post-art-viewing fatigue.
Side Dish: Instead of using the métro to jaunt between museums, try Velib, Paris’ nifty, bike-rental system. Not only do you get an up-close view of Paris, but it’s an excellent way to work off your high-caloric meals! These easy-to-use kiosks allow you to pick-up/drop-off bikes all over Paris, but be warned that they only accept certain American credit cards.
Café de l’Homme
17 Place du Trocadero
Paris 75016
01.44.05.30.15
Café des Hauteurs
1, Rue de la Légion d’Honneur
Paris 75007
01.45.49.47.03
French Twist
While there is still high regard for the classics, French chefs are spicing up traditional dishes with contemporary twists. Chef/Owner Christian Beaufront illustrates this trend marvelously at his quaint restaurant, L’Avant Goût. It is situated in a hidden, adorable part of the 13th Arrondissement, Les Buttes Aux Cailles, which features cobblestone streets, cute shops and restaurants perched on a hill; the neighborhood hums with a similar charm to Montmartre, without the crowds and cheesy, street art vendors. The restaurant’s name, a play on avant-garde ....
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