Hudson Valley Adventures :

Bucolic New York State is still oft-overlooked in favor of the Big Apple – and who can blame travelers for wanting to soak up as much of the city as possible? But just two hours north of the urban culture and chaos there’s another New York, filled with historic homes, wooded forests, cozy inns and impressive restaurants serving up dishes made with ingredients from local farms. It’s the Hudson Valley, and it’s the place to be if you need a breath of fresh air.

Rhinebeck and Red Hook are two small, Hudson Valley towns linked by lengthy Route 9, and each offers ample country charm and culinary prowess. To experience this family-friendly getaway, either rent a car and drive up from Manhattan, or ride Amtrak from Penn Station to Rhinecliff train station, set on the sparkling Hudson River. 

Hudson Valley Eats
Thanks to the renowned Culinary Institute of America in the nearby town of Hyde Park, Rhinebeck and Red Hook are chock full of great farmers markets and places to eat. In the center of Rhinebeck, the eclectic assortment of restaurants ranges from upscale French to casual diner, with a smattering of quirky cafes and ethnic food eateries.

Start at Gigi Trattoria, where Italian-style cooking gets an added jolt of freshness from local produce. Salads are made with greens from nearby Sky Farm and local cheeses, like Hudson Valley Fresh brand ricotta salata and Coach Farm goat cheese. Crispy flatbread pizzas, dubbed Skizzas, are big sellers; pair them with antipasti, like marinated seasonal vegetables and imported sopressata and copa from Italy. Gigi’s pastas are mostly homemade, and are typically tossed with local produce, cheeses and meats.

In the midst of such natural bounty, it’s not surprising that Mediterranean-style cooking reigns. In Red Hook, Mercato Osteria & Enoteca showcases the talents of native Italian chef Francesco Buitoni. Along with creative antipasti, like grilled local lamb & rosemary sausage over braised flageolet beans, Buitoni serves pastas prepared with tempting ingredients like locally smoked pancetta and fresh bufala mozzarella. The substantial Italian wine list boasts several sparkling spumanti and rosé bottles, along with plenty of whites and reds.

Led by Buitoni and wife Michelle Platt, the restaurant sprang from the couple’s first co-venture, Mercato Tivolio, a small shop behind the Red Hook Country Inn that sold fresh pastas and panini. Buitoni, a seventh-generation decendant of the Buitoni Pasta and Perugina Chocolate family, hails from Rome. Mercato reflects an Italian devotion to the connectivity of life and food, with an interior so stylishly warm and inviting that it’s difficult to leave after a meal. The comfortable atmosphere is enhanced by an open kitchen, where Buitoni can be seen manning the stoves, sometimes with a baby in his arms.

Upstate Inns
What better way to fully immerse yourself in the Hudson Valley setting than to sleep on a sprawling horse farm? The Whistlewood Farm B&B, on Pells Road in Rhinebeck, has won the Best Worldwide Bed + Breakfast award, and you’ll see why when you arrive: spacious rooms feature antique furnishings, wood floors, cozy handmade blankets and quilts, loads of natural light and lazy front porches where you can sit and watch the horses roam. Eat a substantial breakfast of buttermilk pancakes or bacon and eggs before exploring the wooded trails on the grounds of the farm.

Prefer water to land? The Rhinecliff hotel is hard to beat. Rooms all have private balconies with views of the Hudson River – the hotel sits just beside the water, near the Rhinecliff train station. Whirpool tubs, antique hardwood floors and a bar that stays open late are a few of the hotel’s many attractive amenities.

Family Adventures and Picnics
Once you’ve filled up on great food and had a peaceful night’s rest, you’ll be ready to tackle the outdoor adventures available in the Rhinebeck and Red Hook areas.

Atlantic Kayak Tours has take-offs in Rhinecliff and Norrie State Park in nearby Hyde Park, as well as a bit further north in Tivoli Bays. The company offers affordable kayak and canoe rentals, as well as beginner kayak tours and even pilates and yoga classes for kayakers.
Ferncliff Forest, just off River Road in Rhinebeck, is a well-shaded old-growth forest preserve that offers a break from the summertime sunshine and humidity. Follow the trail from the parking lot to South Pond, then take a right at the abandoned red building and continue onto the East Tower trail (you’ll see yellow trail markers). Along the way, you’ll pass lush green ferns, mossy rocks, towering hemlock trees and the occasional patch of wildflowers until you reach the East Tower. If you’re feeling brave, climb to the top, where ....