Something I’m still trying to beat into my brain: You can’t explore an entire city in a week. I often forget this slice of wisdom – sometimes I put a lot of pressure on myself to see and do everything, to make sure I don’t have any regrets upon my departure. It makes sense. It’s good old-fashioned curiosity, the desire to know and understand the unknown. It’s no way to travel, though – at least for me – I prefer a more kicked-back approach. I find it better to go deeper, to spend more time in fewer places. Rushing around never got me anything but a case of anxiety, blurred memories. Research of San Francisco prior to my trip revealed that there are over 100 neighborhoods in the city (even though it’s only seven miles by seven miles), not including Sausalito, Napa, and Sonoma. This is a prime example of why I have developed a terrible habit: Planning my return trip before my first is even finished.
HOTEL NIKKO: UNION SQUARE
Hotel Nikko ($200 - $400 a night, depending on the room) is a really comfortable stay: Subarashee Yume pillow-top beds, a spa, and a hip, inviting lobby bar and lounge – I don’t have any complaints. The room was very clean and inviting and very close to Union Square (the shopping district). We also had easy access (via walking or short cab rides) to Chinatown, North Beach (Little Italy), and Fisherman’s Wharf – and there is a rental car facility on-site, right below the lobby. I did not have time to enjoy the spa – it was one of the things that will need to wait until my next trip. Stay with confidence - perhaps you can escape into the spa when you’re in town and let me know what I missed.
NEIGHBORHOOD IMMERSION: AVOID THE TRAP OF SIGHTSEEING
San Fran is all about the different vibes that the neighborhoods have to offer. I highly recommend you explore a few each time you visit. I am hesitant to label that exploration as "sightseeing" - that has such an awful ring to it, it feels so detached as if you’re only looking, not touching. Wandering, exploring, blending in – these are all good things – they imply a sense of involvement. Don't just drive through - stop and experience it. For example: Instead of hopping in and out of a cab to check out the Victorian Houses known as the Seven Sisters (in Fillmore, as made famous by the opening credits of Full House), bring a snack (or whatever) and a blanket and spread out on Alamo Square with the locals, take in the beautiful Victorian houses and the view of downtown in the distance, rising above the roofs of the colorful homes.
OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS: (see map of neighborhoods):
Nob Hill/Russian Hill: I had a great day walking through these two parts of town. It is the definition of urban hiking – the view changes with each block – breathtaking views of the Bay Bridge, Golden Gate Bridge, and Alcatraz, as well as city views that are almost incomparable – the rolling hills and the steep streets.
I walked from Union Square to the intersection of Lombard and Hyde in Russian Hill (you can take a cab or drive if you don’t want to walk). This is the top of the most crooked section of Lombard Street, and although it’s crowded with tourists, it’s worth a stop – a beautiful view, and the street is rather amazing. After a few pictures and words with others doing the same, I walked south on Hyde Street and into Nob Hill, where I found a great lunch spot, the Nob Hill Grille (at the intersection of Hyde and Pine). It’s truly a local’s spot, and I posted up at the bar/counter and had a local beer (Sudwerk Lager, Davis, CA) and a lamb burger. It was delicious – cumin and cayenne spiced lamb with pico de gallo, avocado, cucumber and spicy aioli ($9).
ESCAPE FROM THE CITY: WINE COUNTRY
After a day or two in the city, I was ready for a drive, an escape from the noise. Wine country (Napa/Sonoma) is only about an hour outside San Francisco and calmed me to the core – you go from condensed concrete to dirt roads and open valleys. Domaine Carneros is an excellent first stop, a great aperitif if you will, an introduction to wine country. We sat outside and sipped sparkling wine – I recommend the Brut Rose ($36) as an afternoon sipper – and we munched on a plate of olives, pheasant pate, and sausages (coppa, soppressata, and garlic sausage, $17.50). Absolutely a wonderful afternoon – located right at ....
Will 's Reviews
