Extreme contrast is found everywhere in Malaysia, a land of islands, jungles, megamalls and crystal palaces. Malaysians are manic shoppers (second only to Hong Kong), but they also steward stunning rainforests and wildlife, among the world’s best.
Landing in Kuala Lumpur, I was struck by the country’s solid infrastructure – top among newly industrialized Asian countries. Modern highways, seaports, airports, parks, bridges - and yes those ubiquitous shopping malls. An optimal first visit to Malaysia includes three or four days in Kuala Lumpur, then journeys to outlying areas. I suggest the island states of Penang and Langkawi.
Kuala Lumpur, sixth most visited city in the world
The first stop on most Kuala Lumpur tours (or as Malaysians say, KL) is the Petronas Twin Towers. Soaring to 1,483 feet, the 88-story steel- and glass-clad structures gleam day and night. Master architects César Pelli and Achmad Murdijat designed the iconic, $1.6 billion towers.
The double deck, 41st and 42nd floor sky bridge is a popular stop on the way up to the 86th story viewing area. You can stroll between the structures along the sky bridge and grab a heightened view of the city. The 86th floor observation deck offers optimal views of the towers’ crowns, allowing for some stunning photographs.
A good break from the teeming city: the otherworldly Batu Caves, a 20-minute trip via bus, taxi or train from Kuala Lumpur. An impressive 140-foot tall, gold statue of the Hindu god Murugan - the second tallest statue of a Hindu deity in the world - fronts the temple. The three main caves (about 400 million years old) are considered a religious site and feature ornate Hindu shrines and temples – all accessed via 272 steep steps. Macaque monkeys scamper everywhere – watch your wallet.
At the furthest most cave, I was beckoned by a Hindu priest who asked my name, smeared my forehead with ash, performed rituals, and then tied a string around my wrist - proclaiming that good luck is mine. When he held out the silver platter, that was my clue to place about 10 ringgit on it (about $3.25).
The renowned Hindu festival of Thaipusam is celebrated at the Batu Caves in January of February. Processions, cleansing and bearing of burdens are central Thaipusam rituals – including improbable skin piercings of the mouth, tongue and cheek. It’s reportedly quite the event, and witnessed by about a million visitors during the festival day.
Kuala Lumpur Renown Shopping Capital
Kuala Lumpur ranks second in top shopping destinations in Asia, just behind Hong Kong - and ranks fourth in the world’s best shopping cities, according to a CNN Travel survey. Whether it’s to escape the hot, steamy climate, or simply a love of goods, many Malaysians spend their weekends in malls. There are 66 alone in Kuala Lumpur.
Shopping is the most concentrated in Kuala Lumpur’s Bukit Bintang district where whole interior worlds open up to cafes, night markets and bars. Also check out the Bangsar district: Mid Valley Megamall, The Gardens, Bangsar Village and Bangsar Shopping Center.
For a more authentic shopping spree, try the Jalan Petaling Street market in Chinatown. The name means “starch factory,” from an era when tapioca was ground in stalls there. Skinny rows of kiosks burst with knockoff bags and suitcases, clothing, music, Chinese herbs, toys and my favorite: iPhone cases with unusual designs for $3 ($30 in the States).
A few minutes from Petaling Street is the city’s Central Market, built in 1888, and now a Malaysian Heritage Site. Rows of shops are heaped with arts and crafts, including batik and other textiles woven with silver and gold thread. An outdoor stage hosts arts and cultural events.
My favorite Central Market restaurant, Precious Old China Restaurant & Bar, is decked with Asian antiques – and Victorian chairs used in the movie Anna & the King. Try the delicious Nona Laksa (traditional spicy noodle soup) and the Blue Nasi Lemak (infused rice cooked in coconut milk).
Penang, Pearl of the Orient
Penang is situated on the northwest coast of Malaysia, and has held the title of “food capital of Malaysia” for decades. The optimal way to get your bearings is to ascend Penang Hill, accessed by the Penang Hill Railway, a high speed funicular. Wide eye views of the bay and surrounding city, along with cool mountain air, is the main draw from the heights, along with a Hindu temple and restaurant.
Penang’s capital George Town, settled by the British, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s plenty colonial architecture and yes, more shopping, along with Indian and Chinese temples. Captain Francis ....
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