After I checked out St. Mary's Glacier outside of Denver (which I will tell you about next post, photo on Facebook), I drove over to Boulder - the rock climbing capital of the world - and accepted an invitation to spent a night at the St. Julien Hotel & Spa.

When gold was discovered in the mountains near Boulder in 1859, the town became a supply center for the new mining communities that began to pop up. Trains would begin their journey up into Boulder Canyon from the center of the city, eventually climbing over 4600 feet in elevation to reach the towns of Eldora, Ederland, and Ward via a path known as the Switzerland Trail. It operated for almost forty years until 1919, and today the St. Julien sits on the site of that old rail yard on Walnut Street between 9th and 10th.

That location won't just please history buffs - it will certainly put a smile on the faces of most. The city of Boulder is built around Pearl Street, which houses dozens of shops, restaurants, bars, and entertainment. The hotel is a block south of Pearl and a five-minute walk from its four-block pedestrian mall. One of only two hotels in town to offer a spa, the St. Julien provides great views of the Flatirons, spa-made shampoos and bath products in the room, and comfortable, luxurious beds. Jill’s Restaurant, located off the side of the lobby, serves American and French cuisine in a modern bistro setting, preparing many of its dishes tableside. The St. Julien is regarded as one of the top properties in the city and I found the entire experience to be welcoming and pleasant, especially the location which, as mentioned, is ideal. You’re right there by Pearl Street but a block removed for a view of the incredible Flatirons (see photo below). Request a room on the south side with a balcony to take it all in.

One thing I learned about the people in Boulder this trip is that they do not dress up. Rarely am I the one to be overdressed, I strolled into Oak at Fourteenth on the Sunday night of the long Labor Day weekend and noticed my khaki pants felt out of place. Not because of the restaurant itself – it was actually quite khaki-worthy, with a shiny wooden bar and an open kitchen highlighted by a wood-burning stove – but because no one seems to go further than a pair of jeans and a clean shirt in Boulder. I dig the casual and relaxed vibe – no complaints here – but I wish I had known. Now, you know.

For a town of its size (99,000 people), the options when it comes to dining and entertainment are rather impressive, places that cater well beyond the college crowd to residents and visitors looking for something more hip and contemporary. Oak at Fourteenth fits right in to that latter category, serving what they refer to as New American cuisine that focuses on its oak-burning oven and grill to add a trademark flavor to every meal. The peach & burrata cheese bruschetta and shaved gala apple & kale salad were great starters, and the oak-wood roasted chicken over basil whipped potatoes was my entrée choice. The waiter told us when the basil arrives from the local farmer, the restaurant becomes consumed by its smell. The flavors certainly came through in the potatoes, and it was a great complement to the smoky chicken. Check it out if you're in town - it's a great date spot.

I'm in route from Colorado to Washington D.C. today (mi hermana se va a casar), ending my two-week stint out west.  I received word that I'll be headed back out to the southwest on assignment in a few weeks - I'll fill you in on the details next week. I hope to get a post in tomorrow, if not, St. Mary's glacier and the inspiring story surrounding Oskar Blues Brewery to come early next week.

Photos:

I had almost a 24-hour layover in Denver between my Columbus and Cabo trips, and from the Denver airport we drove straight up into the Rocky Mountains, passing first through Denver and then Boulder before the sun reached high noon. Our destination was Brainard Lake Recreation Area, located an hour and a half from Denver and an hour west of Boulder.

Multiple lakes surrounded by alpine forests and tall peaks sit at various elevations, the ones at the top flowing down into the next in the form of a river. The region was clearly carved by a glacier that has since melted and receded,Isabelle Glacier, and you can hike to it from the trailheads at Brainard Lake.

Grab a map on your way in - it's well-marked and the walk takes you past Brainard and Isabelle lakes. It was in the seventies that day, but I stood on snow when we reached the glacier, the water flowing underneath and serving as the mouth that feeds the lakes and rivers below.

Further establishing this trek as the best layover of my life was the last-minute moose sighting - literally as we were driving out. I pulled the car over and was able to get the photo below. It was the first wild moose I've seen, something that made my face light up. There's just no comparison between seeing that kind of animal in a zoo and standing thirty yards away in the wild.

Check out some of the spectacular sights captured in these photos. Brainard Rec Area is open June through October, and it's $9/vehicle to enter. You can walk in for $1 if you start at another trailhead.

It wasn't a bottle of white wine, although in hindsight it's obvious that cold vino would have been the way to go.

Anyone who has read The Sun Also Rises will understand what I mean when I say I "went Hemingway" on the creek, wedging my water bottle between two rocks, allowing the cold water to do its thing. It was early afternoon and quite hot in the sun - approaching 90 degrees - and as the adrenaline from the morning climb wore off I began to feel my tired muscles. Having learned my lesson hiking to 14,000 feet earlier in the week, I passed on an afternoon cocktail for a healthy serving of hydration.

Looking back that decision seems foolish now, given the calming scenery and how good the sips of wine would have tasted in the heat of the day. As if sitting on the side of the creek and hearing the water flow wasn't enough, the canyon walls, pine trees, blue sky, and cascading waterfall wrapped everyone up in an afternoon comfort. People gathered at the base of the falls, sitting and walking with their ankles in the water, the dogs jumping into the deeper pools. Some had brought picnics, others hammocks and chairs.

That morning I had climbed about 1000 ft to the top of the first flatiron, and needless to say my toes were a bit rough from the journey, from being stuffed into the purposely cozy climbing shoes (reason being a big shoe wouldn't fit in a small hole in the rockface). When I held my feet in the running water and spread my toes, the force of the current performing a makeshift massage, I felt like rehabilitation - both in mind and body - had begun. One man took it a step further, as you'll see from the photos below.

Boulder Falls is located about 12 miles from the cabins of Chautauqua Park (trail open May 1 - October 31), a beautiful drive along the winding road into the Rockies. It's less than a five-minute walk from the road, making it the perfect outdoor sanctuary for people who want to feel good about doing absolutely nothing. My advice would be to bring some friends, and wash down the afternoon with a cold drink.

Photos:

I'm currently writing the story for the Small Newspaper Group about my rock climbing tripwith the Colorado Mountain School in Boulder - so I'll save most of my commentary until I see what's what - but I did want to share some photos.

I must say, looking through these it really hit me - the beauty of Boulder, the grandeur of the entire experience. It's one thing to climb in a gym or in some unknown mountain range, it's another to tackle the entrance to the Rockies. Boulder is considered one of the top places in the world to climb, and I can certainly see why - the arena is what will ensure I never forget the trek.

Hopefully, these photos give you an idea of what I'm babbling about. 

Repelling in Eldorado Canyon

 

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon.

 

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon.

 

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon.

 

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon.

 

My guide near the top of the Flatirons.

 

 

Resting near the top of the Flatirons.

 

Rocky Mountains

Eldorado Canyon.

This past weekend, as part of my rock climbing story for the Small Newspaper Group, I had the opportunity to stay in a cabin at Chautauqua Park, located in the town of Boulder, Colorado (30-40 mins northwest of Denver).

The park is easily recognizable due to its iconic rockface known as the Flatirons. I climbed the first flatiron, the one all the way to the right, on Saturday with the Colorado Mountain School (story to be published in July):

Over the weekend I tackled a few of the hikes, and I must say that I found the park rather amazing. The Royal Arch Trail is challenging, especially given the unforgiving altitude, but the reward is more than worth it once you reach the unmistakable structure (see photo of the arch below). The views from the mountainside are simply stunning, and the aura is enriched after you understand the backstory, that people have been coming to this same place for over a hundred years in an attempt to clear their minds and exercise their bodies.

Quick history: The park grounds were opened in 1898 as part of the Chautauqua Movement, which started in the latter half of the 19th century as a way to unite and educate people across the United States. What began as a summer camp for Sunday school teachers developed and broadened to include general adult education, including public affairs, current events, and liberal arts as well as other moral and civil issues. This was before the invention of television and radio, helping to provide the middle and working class with "a college outlook." It grew to be quite popular: In 1915, about 12,000 communities hosted a chautauqua.

While the Great Depression pretty much put the brakes on the movement soon after, Chautauqua Park in Boulder is one of the few to remain intact and it is the only chautauqua that is open year-round and provides free access to its grounds. The park still hosts films and forums, but the real treat is the incredible landscape. Residents of both Boulder and Denver flock to the park daily - this is no tourist trap.

Visitors to the Denver area who seek a true outdoor experience should look into the cabins available for rent - they are located at the foot of the Rockies and along the main road that feeds the hiking trails of Chautauqua Park. I'd recommend renting a car so you can take advantage of the entire region: Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, and the mountain towns of Breckenridge and Frisco are all great day trip options for hiking, biking, and climbing (and of course skiing/snowboarding in the winter).

Here are a few photos of the park - climbing photos to come:

After spending the weekend near Breckenridge and the last few days in Denver (stories to come), I will move over to Boulder tomorrow and check into a cabin at Chautauqua Park.

I begin rock climbing lessons on Friday with the Colorado Mountain School - Eldorado Canyon on Friday, the Flatirons on Saturday - and the experience will be the focus of my story for the Small Newspaper Group in July.

Eldorado Canyon is supposed to be one of the most beautiful parks in the area (according to my local friends), and the flatirons are a symbol of Boulder.

I'll have to save most of my rock climbing thoughts for the feature, but I will talk about it generally and post as many photos as I can of Chautauqua, Eldorado, and Boulder. Right now I'm working on the story of hiking my first fourteener, and tonight I will check out Denver Cruisers, a biking bar crawl to which I am supposed to wear my pajamas.

It's not often you get to return to a place so promptly, but as luck has it the schedule calls for another trip out west to the Mile High City. I will fly out on Friday and spend a few days in Denver before moving over to Boulder later next week.

Last time, I stayed in one of the more interesting rooms in recent memory at a bed and breakfast, hiked the infamous Red Rocks concert venue, and found a pleasant speakeasy to cap off the trip with some cocktails. The outdoors will be the focus this time around, specifically an introduction to rock climbing. I'll cover the trip on the blog, but I'll also be writing a newspaper feature about my climbing experience.

The feature will be routed to five Midwest daily newspapers (all part of Small Newspaper Group) for a combined print circulation of 149,604: The Daily Journal, Kankakee, IL, Moline Dispatch, Moline, IL, Rock Island Argus, Rock Island, IL, Post-Bulletin, Rochester, MN, Ottawa Times, Ottawa, IL.

This will be my first travel piece for a newspaper, and the first time I've freelanced for one since I stepped back from news coverage a little over a year ago.

I'll be staying and climbing near Chautauqua Park. Here's a photo I took on a hike when I made a day trip from Denver back in early April: