St. Maarten : Battle of the Sonestas Where you stay depends on your idea of relaxation.

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barbecue cookout that they hold every Monday.

It was a calm evening and we were under the stars, the moon hidden by low clouds hanging over the mountains in the distance. It was awfully pleasant out by the pool, the tables all set up and the band at the far end, smoke and fire rising from the hot grills.

The four of us sat at a table overlooking the ocean, the hotel’s position on the hill providing a beautiful vantage point of Great Bay. There were no cruise ships in the harbor – we saw the last one leaving on the drive over, as the sun set to the west. When the band stopped playing, I could once again hear the water.

Earlier I got a taste for the daytime atmosphere: From the lobby you can look down on the beach and the busy waters of Philipsburg (15-minute walk) – the jet skis and the sailors and the swimmers. I was impressed by the views the Sonesta provided of Great Bay: The ocean is a variety of blue colors and the mountains and cruise ships make up the background. Sitting there in the evening as the light faded, it was just as remarkable.

It is here that visitors will find the long stretch of sand that I mentioned is missing from Maho. The beach between the Sonesta and the town of Philipsburg is not crowded by the hotel, but walk down about 10-15 minutes and you’re in the midst of all the water activities (jet skis, sailboats, canoes, dive shops, etc.).

As I sat and enjoyed the evening and listened to the band, I looked up at the balconies of the rooms. I could see the couples sitting out together, a few taking photos before the last bit of daylight disappeared from the sky. There was no sense of hustle in the air – only feelings of content. Whereas in Maho the setting of the sun would be the beginning of the party, here it signals a siesta.

Things to keep in mind:
It’s a cruise ship town, so expect crowds when the ships are in port and for most businesses to close down early, around six or seven when the people return to the ships.

There is little to no nightlife within walking distance of the Sonesta Great Bay. Peace and quiet surrounds the resort as the sun sets, whereas light sleepers on Maho may find it difficult to snooze with the sliding door open.

Most guests dine on-site and kick back at night. The Caribbean barbecue night (every Monday), complete with a steel drum band, is a great example of the atmosphere put forth by the resort – an energetic yet relaxed aura. There’s a casino on-site, but don’t expect an all-night extravaganza.

A Great Day in the Bay:
Philipsburg’s promenade along the beach may not have much nightlife, but it’s loaded with lunch spots. Take a walk into town via the beach and pull up a stool – the people watching is excellent when the ships are in port.   

Taloula Mango: Also known as the Blue Bitch Bar, we had the privilege of a table right off the promenade where we could watch the people walk up and down the strip. There was a band across the way singing reggae classics. It was prime real estate, yet the beers were still cheap (you could get a bucket of 5 for $10-$12) and the food was solid. I had the mahi sandwich, which came in a French roll and was covered in mango salsa. For a menu and exact location, visit http://www.taloulamango.com/.

Great Bay Express: We took the early ferry from St. Maarten over to St. Barths, arriving in Gustavia Harbor amongst the ridiculous yachts, colorful rooftops and green hillsides that welcomed us to the tiny island (about 13-square miles). The ride was about 40-minutes via the Great Bay Express high-speed ferry ($80 round trip), and the perspective you get of the islands from the water is always amazing. Consider a day trip over to the French-influenced beaches and culture of St. Barths – the boat leaves out of Philipsburg.

Shopping: Philipsburg is loaded with options, from high-end retailers to novelty shops. Find tax and duty free prices on jewelry, electronics, and European clothing.

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