October 2012
views always include the azure sea streaming with yachts and cliffs edged with red tiled roofs, church steeples and clouds of crimson and fuchsia bougainvillea. As John Steinbeck so aptly mused in 1953: Amalfi is “a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there but becomes beckoningly real after you are gone.” While luxurious, the hotel is never extravagant or obvious. In many ways, the property yet fits in with the quaint fishing village of Conca dei Marini that surrounds it.
Historical Details Highlighted The sisters placed their herbal remedies and pastries in a revolving, recessed wall cupboard that yet operates near the entrance. Outside patrons would place their money in the cupboard, and the sisters would set their medicine and pastry on the opposite, inside compartment. I don’t blame them for eschewing the outside world. While I’m sure they spent whole days in contemplation and prayer, no doubt they also spent hours contemplating the heavenly sea views - even without an infinity pool to frolic in. Stunning black and white photographs of the Amalfi Coast, circa 1960s, are placed in suites and in various hallways. An old oak confessional is found in one guest hallway. A photo of Jacqueline Kennedy water skiing hangs near the bar. The Kennedy’s largely popularized nearby Poistano after their early visits to the area. All told, the historical touches connect visitors in subtle and potent ways to the property.
Restaurant and World Class Spa The cellar houses a large selection of grappa, limoncello and 280 wine labels, with 35 from France – “so the French will be pleased, otherwise they would not come,” joked General Manager Flavio Colantuoni. Monastero Santa Rosa’s full-service spa, being carved from a 17th century monastery, retains double-height vaulted ceilings and some rough hewn walls. The space includes a tepidarium with heated benches and whirlpool foot baths, a domed herbal steam room, stone sauna and hydrotherapy pool. There are two dry and two wet treatment coaches, a relaxation area for manicures and pedicures, and a private garden terrace with views of the coast. The spa is open all year.
A Greek-flavored Day Trip Paestum consists of three massive, largely intact temples that date to the sixth century B.C. During a walk through the grounds, you’ll first encounter the Temple of Athena, then the Temple of Apollo, and finally an edifice to Hera, the oldest of the three structures. This ancient city was known as Poseidon until the Romans assumed control in 273 BC and called it Paestum, a Latin equivalent. The ruins were discovered in the 18th century after being abandoned during the middle Ages. It’s best to visit early morning, or better – late afternoon as the sun burnishes the limestone to a pale to deeper gold. The adjacent National Archeology Museum of Paestum harbors an equally wonderful find: the Tomb of the Diver: five limestone slabs painted with intact frescos that date to 470 B.C., and the sole example of classical Greek scenes with human figures. Meridiana Airlines offers non-stop service from New York’s JFK airport to either Naples or Palermo. .... |