San Francisco’s Historic Streetcar Service
Six years had passed since I visited San Francisco, which is about five-and-a-half years too late. I love the city, or "The City" as proud citizens often term it. I was eager to return.
A trip highlight was riding the city’s historic streetcars that operate along Market Street. The F-Line runs from the Castro to Fisherman’s Wharf, a prime tourist route. Union Square and numerous other vital spots are also along the line.
A streetcar painted in the color scheme of Boston's original 1940s cars, speeds along Market Street
Seventeen of the line’s 1940s streetcars originate from San Francisco, St. Louis and Philadelphia, (most are from Philadelphia). The cars are painted in various color schemes once found on other U.S. city streetcars, with the city’s name printed on the car’s exterior.
It’s fun to see which car you’ll ride. Some examples: St. Louis, painted green and cream; Baltimore, yellow and gray; Boston, orange, cream and silver with a red stripe; Los Angeles, orange and yellow with silver stripes.
San Francisco first proposed the vintage line back in 1971, but it wasn’t until 1995 that the cars began running. New boarding islands, curbing, planting and widened crosswalks were also installed.
The F-Line fleet also boasts three 1928 streetcars built in Milan, Italy, based on a design originated by Cleveland’s transit commissioner, Peter Witt (the cars are often termed “Peter Witt” cars). They were the first cars that allowed entry by front doors and exit by central doors. Look for the bright orange design.
The streetcars’ interiors are original, although refurbished. Riding the cars is a bit like riding a toy – everything is scaled down (compared to today’s enormous bus windows). Seats are small and narrow and rows of small boxed windows are set low.
Compared to riding San Francisco’s trolley service (more like a bar on wheels as tourists hang from the cars like drunken monkeys), the streetcars offer a genuine experience. Working class people ride the line, just as they did back in the 1940s.
Beck’s Motor Lodge occupies a premium perch along the line at 2222 Market Street. The lodge was built in 1958, when rooms went for $5 a night in the former Irish working class neighborhood. Will Beck lived in a flat nearby. Land was cheap, so he built his dream hotel
Beck’s optimal location and and retro feel can’t be found elsewhere in the area. Various upgrades have been completed over the decades, says owner Brittney Beck, granddaughter of Will Beck.
Beck keeps the blue, yellow and maroon paint job fresh, and her future plans include an outdoor pool and expanded lobby. The rooms are tidy and clean, with such retro touches as 50s-style fabric upholstery on wingback chairs in rooms.
Rates range from $100 to $180 per night and include wi-fi. King Deluxe rooms overlook 15th Street, the quietest part of the building. There are also two King rooms with fireplaces ($180). Parking is free, and all guests have access to a spacious sun deck and laundry facilities.
Learn more about San Francisco’s historic streetcar service.
Visit the Beck’s Motor Lodge website.
