Via Tornabuoni is among the toniest avenues in Florence. Gucci, Dior, Prada, Tiffany, and Ferragamo line the street, just down from the venerable Palazzo Strozzi.

A 13th century tower, now a signature historic residence, anchors the avenue along the Arno River: Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni, renovated in 2001 to reflect classic, contemporary Florentine elegance.

The enduring tower

The tower was built for the Guelph family of the Ruggerini in medieval times and later inherited by the Gianfigliazzis in the 14th century. It became the preferred residence of English artists and literati from the early 1900s. Now, it boasts among the best 360-degree views of the art capital from its two rooftop terraces.

An extensive 1841 renovation added the distinctive merlons, along with new windows. More notably, a 2008 renovation was overseen by Milan-based Angelica Frescobaldi who brought in fresh color –– splashed on wall coverings, ample silk curtains and lampshades.

The six-story structure has 19 rooms that range from basic to the Panoramic and Renaissance suites and another that contains a library, purchased at auction. After additional renovations are complete in September 2014, the property will offer 24 rooms.

Florentine fabrics that fluoresce

Designer Frescobaldi says she’s not a fan of “trendy interiors, which quickly go out of style.” Her classic touch includes damask motifs inspired by 18th century Florentine fabrics. She is especially keyed to lighting: custom lampshades employ textiles from London, Jaipur and elsewhere –– some hand-dyed. At night, the fixtures luminesce with deep, patterned color.

Each room is, in fact, decidedly lively, but also warm. Alcove beds are dressed in Moroccan fabrics, and pillows. And a bathtub suite seems nearly carved out of a block of Calacatta Oro marble, instead of just created from the distinctive material. Red Alcantara marble is used elsewhere.  

Much of the furniture hails from Italian and English antique shops, or was purchased at auction. A nice touch in one suite: plaster carved away to reveal original stonework along a corner.

Some rooms also feature iron canopy beds, striped wall covering, private terraces, hand-painted wall decoration – and each room has its own color theme, inspired by renaissance color palates.

The soul of the property: the staff

Beyond the refinements, however, is the Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni staff, the key to the property’s reputation as a pleasant, comfortable, family-run property (the owners live in Milan).

Latifa, Dandy, Adan – it’s natural to memorize most of the staff’s names by your second day. They are that accessible, without being obtrusive. Each morning at 7 a.m. I climbed the stairs to the rooftop terrace with its 24-hour bar and complimentary coffee and tea service. There I found 85-year-old Maria who has worked for Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni for 30 years.

I never let Maria make me a cup of coffee. I did it myself as I listened to her rapid fire Italian. I didn’t understand most of it. No matter, I was in Florence with a timeless view of the Duomo, drinking cappuccino, watching the sunrise and listening to the glorious language spoken by a woman who had heard the first broadcast of Radio Vaticana in the 1930s.

Giulia Rusconi Clerici and her siblings were responsible for opening Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni to the public. “The palazzo belonged to my mother’s family and has always been associated with the arts: antique dealers, archeologists, art experts and hoteliers,” says Clerici. “Opening our property to guests was a way of maintaining tradition.”

Palazzo Strozzi and other nearby attractions

Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoniis located adjacent to  Piazza Santa Trinita, a triangular square set with an ancient Roman column topped with a statue of Justice. Besides boutique stores along Tornabuoni, a renown enoteca, Cantinetta Antionri, is found in Palazzo Antinori, which dates to 1506.

Nearby Palazzo Strozzi, launched in 1489 and finished in 1538, is Florence’s largest temporary exhibition space.  The Peggy Guggenheim Collection has been exhibited at Strozzi, as well as works by Lippi, Botticelli, Klimt, and most recently: Pontormo & Rosso, through July 20, 2014.  The courtyard offers free concerts and a bar and café.

 

Side view of Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni, fronting the Arno

Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni, central location

Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni is a five to ten minute walk to the city’s main draws, yet it feels set apart from the tourist bustle. Nearby are the cathedral, Palazzo Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery, and other primary sites. You can, in fact, walk from the train station to the property (15 minutes if you don’t mind rattling your luggage along bumpy cobblestone streets).

Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni includes a full hot and cold buffet breakfast, served from 8 to 10 a.m. The property offers packages that include culinary shopping and winery tours, as well as cooking classes. Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni also hosts weddings.

Antica Torre di via de Tornabuoni
Via Tornabuoni, 1, 50123 Florence
+39 055 265 8161
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On Sunday, I awoke in Denver to clear skies and eighty-degree weather, making it easy to rise and shake off the fatigue of the four days of skiing in Salt Lake. I felt so fine, finally on the ground in the Mile High City, a place I have wanted to visit for over ten years. There's a sense of accomplishment in that, an uncovered smile.

With snow in the forecast for the following two days, we hopped into the pickup truck and drove west on Interstate 70. While Denver is indeed in the shadows of the Rocky Mountains, there is some distance between the foothills and the city (15-20 miles), which makes the drive a beautiful, anticipatory experience. We could see them the whole time, the amount of space they took up in our windshield increasing as the wind came in through the open windows.

We were planning on doing a hike, and my friend suggested we check out Red Rocks, the infamous venue nestled in large, sound-friendly rock structures. I had heard so much praise for it over the years, and the biggest surprise to me upon arrival was the size - it's small and intimate, holding under 10,000 people. I expected it to be bigger given its ability to coax musical performances from legends like the Beatles and the Grateful Dead and Carlos Santana and Fleetwood Mac, however it became very clear very quickly that ticket sales are not what tempts the big boys to roll through town.

I ran up the steps, looking down at the ground and my footing until I reached the top. There were many other people enjoying the day - it seems the amphitheatre is a local favorite for a weekend workout. While it may not have been large, it was certainly grand - and most definitely overwhelming.

I can only imagine the ambiance when the stage lights come on and dance on the rocks, the crowd packs in and the city lights of Denver shine in the distance. My friends here in Denver tell me there are often lightening storms during the shows and that, when it's clear, fans sway to the music under a giant bowl of stars, the light pollution low and the moon large over the mountains.

Any trip through Denver should include a half-day adventure out to Red Rocks. There are walking trails around the amphitheater and in the nearby foothills if you want to get in a hike, but the views from the venue are worth the trip alone. There's also a "Hall of Fame" with memorabilia and year-by-year lineups - you will instantly regret you have not spent every summer in Denver.

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