On a recent ghost tour, a woman from the Howard County Board of Tourism joked that the more spirits you consume, the more you see.

I'm unfortunately not finding that advice to be true - and I've certainly put it to the test. Two weeks ago in Savannah I took advantage of the city's drinking tolerance (no open-container law) while cruising around on a trolley with Old Savannah Tours, and last night I bar hopped in historic Ellicott City as part of their Dare to Taste the Spirits Tour (just outside ofBaltimore in Maryland).

Nothing - not one sighting or feeling or sound (although there was this one moment in Savannah that interested me, read below). And, to be frank, I'm starting to take it personally. I mean, does Casper have a problem with me or something?

On these tours I've heard stories: Tables being flipped over, pennies found all over the house, dogs freaking out, the sounds of high heels on hardwood in a carpeted office, figures standing over people when they awake at night, impressions in bed sheets, doors opening and slamming, the feeling of being "passed through," hearing voices.

Yada yada yada - it's kind of starting to annoy me that I haven't experienced something myself.

I'm working on a short story called The Promised Land that explores the idea of spirits and ghosts - who/what they are and why we see them as we do - so perhaps its completion will entice some visitors to my bedroom after dark.

Hopefully you will have better luck (or at least avoid the bitterness I'm feeling). Here's the scoop on two ghost tours I recently checked out, let me know if you capture any proof.

Old Savannah Tours: Trolly Tales of Historic Haunts

I was standing in the spot where she landed on her head, the concrete crushing her face and the blood spilling out of her nose, mouth, and eyes. She had jumped from the second-story balcony, diving into the pavement below. It is said she killed herself when she found out her husband was having an affair with one of the slaves. She was the wife of Francis Sorrel, and according to the stories, she still haunts the house.

Today, it's known as the Sorrel-Weed House and is widely accepted as being the most-haunted property in Savannah (it's the final stop on the Old Savannah Tour). A guide will lead you through the house, sharing the history beyond the walls. It was here that I had the moment I referenced earlier - probably my closest call when it comes to interacting with a spirit.

Our guide pulled out an electromagnetic field detector and she held it above the table in the dining room, locating a spot where the device began to beep. I didn't think much of it until the sensitive area began to move, both up and down and left to right (it wasn't staying in one place, reducing the chances that the energy was coming from an eletricity source).

When she could no longer find it in the lower half of the room, she handed the detector to me (I'm taller). I was holding it up above my head, the device going off. I could trace an outline of the area - a few feet by a few feet - but soon it shifted again and I found it down near the table, literally right in front of me. I felt and saw nothing, although something was definitely putting out a moving electromagnetic field. A ghost? Who knows, but at least I finally had a hands-on experience to consider.

Later, down in the basement, we were able to view the feed from infrared motion detectors. I saw "orbs" on the television screens, floating and swirling randomly throughout the room. Some say they're nothing more than dust, but the concentration of them changed based on who was in the room, which seems to debunk that theory.

When we sent a pregnant woman into the room, more "orbs" appeared on the monitors (according to our guide, ghosts are especially attracted to pregnant women and children).

The other stop on the tour is the Pirates House Rum Cellar, where pirates used to prey on locals, turning them into slaves to work on their ships. For more information, visit Old Savannah Tours.

Howard County, Maryland: Taste the Spirits of Ellicott City

Although Washington D.C. and Baltimore are the main attractions in the region, historicEllicott City is considered one of the most haunted small towns on the East Coast. The combination of granite, flowing water, antiques, and electricity are said to attract and retain spiritual energy.

It is a cute town, lots of shops and restaurants along a hilly street with many granite stone buildings. I found a good, interesting way to explore the different restaurants/bars was theDare to Taste the Spirits Tour - you will not only get yourself a bit of the history, but you'll take in the spirits of the town, in both the literal and paranormal sense.

We tasted wine at the Wine Bin and beer at the Diamondback Tavern, two of the six possible stops. As you drink and enjoy the vibe, your guide will fill you in on the tales associated with each place - the events that occurred right where you're sitting.

More information and a coupon are available on the Howard County website.

Recently, I had a discussion with a Savannah innkeeper about the lack of interest from young professionals in bed and breakfast accommodations. We talked about many issues, including price and perception – the idea that the small inns are too stuffy for the new generations of travelers.

I can’t say I agree with that mindset, although I understand why it exists. Traditionally, bed and breakfasts were known to foster a feeling of bunking at grandma’s house, however there is movement to get out from underneath that blanket - the idea that these inns can be hip in addition to comfy and cozy.

Shannon Romine is the youngest innkeeper I’ve met to date, and although I’m not going to talk numbers (she’d kill me), I will say there is an energy at the Dresser Palmer House that is refreshing. Recently removed from the restaurant business in Savannah, Romine is a source for the newest restaurants and late-night hang out spots, offering personal recommendations based not only on her own experiences, but relationships and knowledge of the chefs and staffs of local establishments. She’s also a big fan of picklebacks – but I’ll let her fill you in on those stories (make sure you have a drink at the full-service bar, a rare find at a B&B).

There is also another energy flowing through the Dresser Palmer, however this one is in no way fueled by whiskey. It comes in the form of a ghost, no surprise considering Savannah is one of the most haunted cities in America.

From Shannon:

Being an old house (built in 1876), it is expected that there will be creaks and knocks from the settling of the home, but these occurrences were different and far too coincidental to have happened over and over. The housekeepers would complain that while in the Henry Dresser Room, the shower would cut on and soak them when they were cleaning. Guests would say they saw a child sitting at the end of their bed in the middle of the night.  Children’s voices could be heard throughout the house, particularly in the Western side.

Four years ago, the house was remodeled and a photographer came in to take photos for the website. The concierge took him around and into the Henry Dresser room, and after the shoot he went downstairs to the parlor to upload his work.What they discovered you can see below: A ghostly little girl appeared in one of the photos.

She is there in a period nightgown and cap, you can even see her hair and eyes. Curiosity from the image caused employees to research Mr. Dresser, and it was then discovered that he had a daughter by the name of Madaline that died when she was ten years old – turns out she died in the house when her nightgown caught on fire. It is believed that she passed in the John Wesley Room, which back then would have been the living area (orbs can be seen in photographs by the fireplace).

According to the housekeepers, an indention in the sheets could be seen on the bed in the Wesley Room, as if someone were laying there and watching. In addition to her these pranks, she loves to steal and leave pennies all over the house and will flicker the lights when children are present.

Whether you view the potential presence of a ghost as good news or bad news, it certainly makes things interesting. I unfortunately/fortunately had no encounters during my stay, but a part of me wishes Madaline would have paid me a visit. I had the opportunity to take an official tour of the spooky sites around town on my final night in Savannah – that story to come.

For now, check out the photo of Madeline and let me know: Are you a believer?

Ted Dennard of Savannah Bee Company believes that the traditional view of honey - the sticky jar or honey-bear bottle that's been in the cabinet for years - deserves to be tossed into the trash, once and for all.

Sampling honey as a sommelier would wine, he spouts off tasting notes: Quality, varietal, the whole deal. I've seen him use a scoop and carefully savor his product, but most times he sticks his finger into the barrel and laughs. His hair is blonde and wavy and he resembles a surfer, his smile revealing a boy's spirit in a man's body.

A closer look at Ted's background shines light on his expertise. But it also tells a tale of a worldly man whose knowledge and experience go well beyond the business of bees:

He kept bees in high school then at college at the University of the South in Sewanee, Tennessee. In a tour with the Peace Corps after college, Ted taught beekeeping to village farmers in Central America. He traveled the world to see bees making medicinal manuka honey in New Zealand, rubber honey in Vietnam, logwood honey in Jamaica, heather honey in Ireland, and the famous tilleul lavender honey of France.

Obviously, this guy is good for a conversation.

Both of his stores that I visited in the Savannah area were designed as a tasting room. The walls are lined with bottles of honey, most resembling a slender bottle of wine. He said he's trying to change the public's perception, to inform people that grocery-store honey is the Two-Buck Chuck of the honey world.

While it's Ted's love for his craft that ultimately elevates his product, the honey business is much more exciting that I had originally speculated, especially when you volunteer yourself for a close encounter with the busy bees themselves.

I had the opportunity to head out into the field and hear a bit about the process, interact with the bees. I learned how the queen bee is chosen and fed royal jelly and even saw one up close, but the latter was what I had been anticipating - I wanted to replicate what I've seen on television where someone's entire body is covered with bees. Ted wouldn't go that far, but he did assist me in digging through the hives and holding a few dozen in my hand (see photos... they were actually very friendly).

His only advice: Don't squeeze.

Products of Savannah Bee Company:

Tupelo Honey: Ted's not shy about letting it be known that this is his favorite type of honey. I hate to play favorites, but it's the jar I find myself going back to most often. Pretty cool: The trees from which it comes only bloom once a year for two weeks in the spring.

Cheese, Grill, and Tea Honey: No clue what pairs with what? Savannah Bee puts its accouterment right on the label.

Raw Honeycomb: Bees gather nectar from thousands of flowers and deposit it into a beeswax cell, then stand over it and fan their wings to evaporate the water, leaving behind a rich, syrupy substance (honey). The cell is then capped with a thin layer of beeswax and reserved as food supply for the colony - we know it as honeycomb. This delicacy is an amazing appetizer or dessert, best enjoyed with slices of tart green apple and a wedge of salty sharp cheddar.

A final fact that blew my mind: Five hundred and fifty bees have to visit two million flower blossoms to create one pound of honey, and then they must consume six pounds of honey to generate one pound of beeswax.

Check out these recipes for more ideas on how to add honey to your diet. You can order honey and other products online via Savannah Bee Company's website. When you're in Savannah, stop by and see Ted and his crew. They will be happy to show you around.

Photos:

Bees building honeycomb.

 

 

View inside a hive. 

Yours truly handling the bees! 

 

 

So far, we've talked about preference and personality when it comes to small inns, about having breakfast in bed (Zeigler House) and the flair that an innkeeper can bring to the dining room table (Azalea Inn). Now we move on to another properly placed alliteration that makes bed and breakfasts special: The passion of the proprietor.

The reason Green Palm Innkeeper Diane McCray opened her doors in Savannah was simple: She wanted to work with people in good moods, folks on vacation. Once the employee of a moving company, she grew tired of money being the only reward that she reaped. We were in the kitchen when she told me the story, and I immediately felt a connection with her, understanding fully what she spoke. I mean, can you think of any business where the clientele is more stressed out than a moving company?

Traveling has revealed to me that while many people are unhappy with what they do for a living, very few are willing to make a significant change to correct the situation. Many apply a band-aid and switch firms, others simply complain at happy hour. However some people, like Diane, are able to draw up an audible and find a new path. I have a great respect for this quality, mostly because I understand how difficult it can be to recognize that risks are worth taking.

For me, there is a funny push-and-pull that takes place when it comes to the location of my accommodations. The Green Palm Inn is very inviting, however its proximity to restaurants, bars, the squares, and the waterfront makes it difficult to lounge around the house. Step out the front door and turn right and you're treated to a beautiful walk (few blocks) through Green, Columbia, and Olgethorpe Squares on your way to the center of Savannah. One block north of the Green Palm is Broughton Street, the main east-west drag in the historic district(littered with shops and restaurants).

Feeling like a house guest (as opposed to a customer) is essentially guaranteed at the Green Palm Inn given that it has only four bedrooms. They're large and comfortable, my room was far from small - I had a day bed in addition to the queen (see photos). While I've seen the breakfast crowd spill over to two tables in other inns, meeting and conversing with fellow patrons was a manageable task. After I had my coffee the floodgates opened, and we shared recommendations over Diane's egg quiche, sausage, and cream-cheese danishes.

Moving on from a career doesn't mean you don't take something with you, and Diane has done a wonderful job of combining her corporate organizational skills and efficiency with her desire to become a part of her guests' good memories. When you meet her you can definitely feel it, the pride she takes in her work and, mostly, you can see that she loves what she does. Running a bed and breakfast is no easy task - I'd be willing to bet she puts in more energy now than she did for her corporate job - but effort is all relative when it no longer seems like work.

Photos of the Green Palm Inn:

Yesterday I made the drive from Orlando to Savannah, coming back up the east coast into Georgia after a long weekend in Florida. I'll checking out four bed and breakfasts over the course of the next four nights.

I have many stories to share from Orlando (as well as a few more to come from St. Simons), including trips to Universal Studios and Disney (my balloon ride was unfortunately canceled due to windy weather). I had been traveling through St. Simons and Orlando with friends and fellow writers, but now I am flying solo here in Savannah. I love traveling with a group, however being on my own has its benefits as well.

Productivity and freedom of scheduling are two of them, but sleeping alone in a romantic room is not on the list.

Even though I've been doing this (travel writing) for a year and half, I still have some things to improve upon, and remembering to confirm the size of my party is currently the most relevant. When I arrived at the Zeigler House in Savannah in the early afternoon and met the owner, Jackie, she was surprised to see me.

Well, she was surprised to see only me.

"I thought you were traveling with someone," she told me, "I gave you the most romantic room."

I laughed, but she wasn't kidding. It's called the Giverney Suite, and I almost feel bad staying in here knowing that there are couples sleeping downstairs in smaller rooms. Fresh flowers decorate the coffee and dining tables, and there's even an orchid on the nightstand. From my window I can see the purple clouds and pink sky, the sun setting behind the trees.

The live oaks really do it for me here in Savannah (it seems to be a common trend throughout Georgia). Every other block you find yourself walking under a canopy, strolling in the shaded squares beside the flowering bushes. There are benches everywhere, almost as if they are arranged so another is always in sight (that's probably not true, but it sure seems that way).

Many of the sidewalks are made of old cobblestones or red bricks, which drives home that historic feel. Savannah is a town built around squares - they're everywhere (and beautiful... see map below, I'll have photos later).

An interesting thing about the Zeigler House: Unlike most B&Bs, breakfast is not served in the dining room - you have it at your leisure in your room. My kitchen is stocked with fresh baked goods (made daily by Jackie... cream-cheese danishes, blueberry muffins, monkey bread), cereal, English muffins, coffee, tea, milk, juice, yogurt, etc (all included in room rate).

I think that this could be a welcome change if you are embarking on a romantic weekend - no pressure to get up and go downstairs for a hot meal - you can enjoy coffee and breakfast at your leisure as you wake up in the suite. I'm a social being, yet I can see the allure of not having to leave the comfy bed to run down and eat with the rest of the guests, to not feel obligated when you know the innkeeper has been slaving away at the stove since the crack of dawn. I'm not taking sides, though - I see the benefit in both approaches.

That's why they make chocolate and vanilla.

Photos:

When I woke up and saw the dusting of snow on the ground (Philly area), I brewed a hot cup of coffee and began looking over my plans for the next two months - specifically my two-week trip to St. Maarten/St. Martin in the middle of February.

I might have mentioned that I just relocated back east from California, and all my friends think it's funny to send me the weather report from Santa Barbara: 70s and sunny today. 

That's all right - no seasonal depression here, however I do require a touch of warmth in my life - and I'll have details of my island plans for you in the beginning of February.

Before that (end of January) I get another shot of the cold when I visit the Finger Lakes to check out Wine on Ice and take a scenic flight over the area.  I was there recently to check out the fall colors, and now I'll see what the winter is like in Upstate New York. The Rosewood Inn (bed and breakfast) will be my home for the weekend. 

It's a long way off, but I confirmed the other day that I will be headed south in April to check out the King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort on St. Simons. More info to come on that - I believe I will wrap it in a trip to check out Savannah as well. 

Stay warm, kids.